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MARSABIT NATIONAL RESERVE

Marsabit National Reserve, an area of some 2070sq km 800sq in Kenya's Northern Region, consists of a forested mountain which rises like an oasis in the midst of a desert wilderness, a spectacular group of volcanic craters of which Gof Bongoli is the largest and most dramatic, foothills of rugged grandeur and black lava desert which boasts an impressive list of rare and little-known birds.
spacerApart from the fascination of visiting a wild and remote region, which is still off the map to most visitors, the great attractions at Marsabit are its Elephants and its Greater Kudu.  This Reserve is one of the very few places where there is still a possibility of seeing elephant with tusks of 45kg and over though they keep mainly to the forest and are difficult to locate.  Prior to 1960 Greater Kudu also were abundant on Marsabit, but in that year they were greatly reduced by an outbreak of rinderpest. Now, however, their numbers are beginning to build up again and one can be tolerably sure of seeing the animals.
Reticulated Giraffe are common on the mountain, where they have taken to spending much of their time in the forest – a most unlikely habitat for giraffe.
Other interesting animals at Marsabit include the Striped Hyena –the maniac cackle of its laughing cry is spine –chilling if you are under canvas-and its smaller relative the insectivorous Aard-wolf. The Caracal also occurs, but is seldom seen except on a nocturnal trip into the edge of the Dida Galgalla Desert- itself most rewarding experience.
Some of the craters come within the forest zone, and one which fills with water during seasons of favorable rains, is the aptly named Lake Paradise made famous by the early films and writings of Martin Johnson and Vivien de Wattville. Most of the water birds so far recorded at Marsabit have been observed around this lake or at the crater swamp adjacent to Marsabit Lodge.
Immediately north of Marsabit lies that most inhospitable of terrain, the black lava wastes of the great Dida Galgalla desert. A buffer zone of sandy soil with plentiful acacia trees and bush lies between it and the mountain. This area is the home of many ornithological rarities, from the majestic black-faced Heuglin's Bustard and immaculate Somali Ostrich to Swallow-tailed Kites, most graceful of their tribe, Cream – coloured coursers in abundance, pale green Somali Bee eaters and the supposedly rate Masked Lark which is the commonest bird in the black lava wastes.
On Marsabit there is always the chance of seeing something really special in the birds of prey line –52 different ones have been recorded-and it is probable that the Lammergyer nests on the towering cliffs of Gof Bengali or one of the other craters.
The distance from Isiolo to Marsabit is 270km, in other words 560km north of Nairobi.  A big new road now reaches Marsabit but it is often heavily corrugated and a strong four-wheel drive vehicle is preferable, and even more necessary for the forest roads off the main road.
A permit to enter the area must be obtained from Provincial Headquarters at Isiolo; parties must travel in at least two suitable vehicles, and they must completely self-contained as regards fuel, water and food.
Accommodation at Marsabit is at Marsabit Lodge sited at the edge of forest overlooking the swamp and lake in the Sokorte Dika crater. Also thee are camp sites for those who prefer to stay under canvas, including one near the shores of Lake Paradise, which must be pre-booked in Nairobi, and one just outside the town which requires no booking.

 

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